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Andros Island - "The Sleeping Giant"
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The
Island and Its People
Andros is the largest island of The Commonwealth of the Bahamas,
and at more than 100 miles long and 40 miles wide, is the fifth
largest in all of the Caribbean. Engulfed in a sense of mystery,
the sparsely populated Andros is laced with creeks and has a densely
forested inland. The island’s western coast is still
largely unexplored. History on Andros includes a colorful array
of farming and fishing, Arawak Indians, European explorers and
colonizers, slaves, pirates, bootleggers, and smugglers. Today,
compared with other Bahamian islands, Andros has a much smaller
population with fewer than 10,000 people. Many of the inhabitants
are fishermen, weavers, and farmers who live in settlements along
the East Coast. Because Andros is split in half by bights
and inlets, transportation between the north and south islands
is difficult. North Andros is home to more than half the
population, a Mennonite mission, a few small resorts, and AUTEC
(the Atlantic Undersea Test and Evaluation Center), a NATO base
run by the US Navy.
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Andros
does not offer the amenities expected by some visitors. Services
such as phone, water, and electricity are still not
available everywhere on the island. Casinos
and shows have not invaded Andros, and there are
no malls or fast-food chains on the island. There
are a few small stores where snack foods and meals
can be purchased, but be sure to remember your film,
insect repellent, and bathing suit. Although Andros
is roughly 200 miles off the coast of Florida, the
language and culture are distinctly different from
the States. Androsians live in small communities
with standards of housing, dress, and sanitation
unlike what we are accustomed to in the States. We
share a common language, but Bahamian English is
spoken rapidly and sometimes is hard to understand. Don’t
hesitate to ask for clarification. They
are friendly and eager to share their lives and their
views as our guests visit their communities. Visitors
who embrace the Androsian people and their culture
will be richly rewarded and educated by the experience. Andros
is known for its unique and beautiful |
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baskets,
carvings, and batik fabrics, to name a few of the
special gifts
available for purchase. The lack of development
on Andros enhances its environmental uniqueness
and makes it an ideal place to create art. The
pace of life is slow, the passing of the sun rather
than the ticking of the clock measures the days,
and it’s still possible to walk down the
middle of the road without stopping traffic. |
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Sleeping
Giant
Andros
is on the move, the Sleeping Giant, as it is called
has stumbled from bed. If you want to see the dynamics
of culture in action visit Fresh Creek, Morgan’s
Bluff, Behring Point, Red Bays or Big Pond. To the
tourist it may seem as though not much is going on,
it is a place out of time, an enchanted fishing community.
The people who grew up there may say different. It
is quiet now when compared to the 1970’s. The
young people have left home, gone to town or the
States in search of jobs. The population is decreasing.
The older people describe another world of corned
conch, thatch camps, track roads, toting water, and
sculling boats. The old days were 20 years ago. There
has been a hurricane of American culture in recent
years. Young men and women can tell you about the “old
days gone.’’ Tales are told of picking
up conch on the beach, chopping fish in the mangrove,
boiling and straining coontie, digging crab, and
fanning benny: these are tales of a different life.
Subsistence agriculture and fishing are still a part
of Androsian life, but for every fish fried there
are two pork chops. Yamahas roar where sheets used
to luff. So what is remembered must be shared. A
shared, learned way of life has always included reverence
for the past. History and culture cannot be teased
apart.
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In
1935 the people of Blanket Sound, Andros built
a new school of block and lime high up on a rock
hill, with water on three sides. When the tide
was high the children of Stafford Creek and Big
Pond would travel to school by Mr. William Woodside’s
wooden boat. If the tide was low he would carry
them as far as the bay, and they would walk the
rest of the way. The people of Andros have many
sages. The old people sit on stoops ready to tell
of times
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strange and lessons learned. Most have not gained
much material wealth but the lives they lived are
historically rich. Paramount among these groups
are the artisans. Having been spongers, sawyers,
cooks, and canners, their art has always been with
them as a way of life. The artisans are basket
makers, boat builders, and woodcarvers but they
have lived many different lives in search of subsistence.
Stand or sit next to a basket- maker weaving, a
carver carving and listen. There is no need to
ask. Wisdom comes from these people who have chosen
to labor and master a craft. They have distinguished
themselves from the crowd many years ago.
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